<![CDATA[Hélène Bourget Designs

Today's post is of the process of making a ring, with a slight restriction- I had to use a ring that had belonged to a client's mother. I really enjoy being a part of something special and meaningful and this is a great example of what I offer as a custom goldsmith. This client wanted to remember her mom by refurbishing this ring she had worn for years.

Sometimes it's not the intrinsic value that means the most, as this ring had been lovingly worn, most likely 24/7, to the point that the sapphire was damaged and I had to have it re-polished. The diamonds were not the best quality either, but I still thought they deserved to be included as they were part of the original ring. I took these very modest stones and created a beautiful leaf ring- all while keeping the spirit of the original wearer.

This ring was a typical mass produced cluster type of ring that are fairly ubiquitous. No disrespect intended, but I didn't have much to work with. The small "chips" were low quality single cut diamonds but I thought that they would have a better chance at looking good if they were bezel-set instead of in claws. They were very tiny too, only 1.37mm in diameter. That be small! I started by designing something based on what my client told me she wanted. She has had a ring made a few years earlier so I know she appreciates my work and approach. This is the design we settled on.

After alloying the required amount of 14kt white and yellow gold, I measured and determined the length of material to get started on the two outside rails.

I then scribe the leaves on to white gold plate that I have rolled down to 0.55mm in thickness.

Here are the leaves cut out. I will now use a thicker saw blade to run a line down the centre of each leaf, creating a "vein".

I am going to jump from this to the part where I am getting ready to set the main stone. I didn't take pictures of the the soldering of the leaves, one by one, on to the ring as well as placing all the eight bezel-set diamonds into the ring. I have been taking these shots with my phone and only one-handed...a bit awkward! So, you'll have to use your imagination to get the idea.

I then make sure I get the size correct by hammering the rails into their round shape and size on my ring mandrel.

I cut out the leaves with a very thin saw blade using a saw frame. These leaves are approximately 2 x 4.5 mm. Tiny.

Now that I have attached the two rails with a inner white gold "vine", I am ready to pre-set the small diamonds in white gold tubing. Diamonds can take the heat of soldering and it makes my life a wee bit easier to have the diamonds pre-set so all I have to do is insert them into the ring. I also made the setting for the sapphire at this stage. Since it was quite small, 3 x 5mm, I calculated the dimensions as if it were a round stone, then created a seat using a burr, and then squished it back to an oval shape, thus eliminating the need to make an outer bezel as well as an inner seat.

Shaping the leaves with pliers to give them a three dimensional effect.

From flat to voluptuous...I love that they come to life!

One detail I also added was a small plate on the inside of the ring with the word MOM inscribed. My client requested engraving it and since the ring is so open and the rails are rather narrow, I thought this was a good solution.